A Seventy fifth anniversary shouldn’t be one you let slip by with out a correct occasion. And so Omega set out for Mykonos this yr to blow out the candles for the Seamaster. We’ve seen a slew of updates throughout your entire assortment, however right here we’re going to deal with the fashionable centerpiece of the mannequin vary: The Seamaster Diver 300m, generally known as the SMP300m.
That is the watch made well-known by James Bond in Goldeneye, the one which cemented Omega because the watch of 007. Through the years it has undergone quite a few adjustments in kind, dimension, and coloration.
In 2018, Omega launched the most recent design of the watch – upsizing it from 41mm to 42mm and including the controversial (however now accepted) exhibition caseback showcasing the METAS-certified Co-Axial caliber 8800.
That is the Seamaster Diver 300m that we’ve had in our lives for the higher a part of half a decade – itself launched to commemorate the seventieth anniversary of the Seamaster writ massive. At 75 we aren’t seeing an enormous change to the watch, however we’re actually seeing a celebratory one. So what does that imply precisely?
It means considerate adjustments that not solely harken again to the previous, but additionally converse to the fashionable context of watch design. From a heritage perspective, this new Seamaster brings again the closed caseback – with a twist. As an alternative of the well-known Seahorse engraving, issues listed here are a bit extra ornate with Poseidon and his trident etched prominently.
From a contemporary perspective, we’ve the very first thing that jumps off of this new tackle the SMP300m: The dial. Whereas Omega is asking this a gradient “Summer time Blue,” I’ll go as far as to say that is the model’s tackle a smoked or fumé dial remedy, the place the gradient goes from darkish alongside the sides to a shiny blue on the middle – on this case an illustration of the altering colours on the depths of the ocean.
The dial floor is a matte, grained texture which is totally different from the shiny ceramic floor of the prevailing fashions in blue, black, white, and inexperienced. We have now the identical laser-etched wave sample that we all know from the prevailing fashions.
Prematurely of this launch, rumors abounded that Omega had returned this watch to its earlier 41mm dimension. As an alternative, we’ve the identical 42mm dimension as the prevailing mannequin vary born from the 2018 launch, together with the identical non-tapering metal bracelet and a rubber strap. The bezel insert here’s a darkish blue ceramic with a blue enamel (grand feu) diving scale.
This new Seventy fifth-anniversary metal Seamaster will price $5,900 on strap, $6,300 on bracelet, and is accessible quickly.
What We Suppose
There’s little doubt that the imaginations of Seamaster-faithful in every single place have been working rampant with concepts of what this anniversary occasion would yield. It might appear that 75 shouldn’t be the yr of large change however – to be sincere – that’s not essentially a foul factor.
We lovers have a ton of massive concepts, and we’re all the time craving for manufacturers to blow issues up, take large swings, or revert fully to the previous. Generally the most effective transfer is to remain the course, particularly when speaking about considered one of your hottest watches.
And that’s exactly what Omega has performed right here, selecting iteration over innovation and delivering a very good-looking tackle an already profitable formulation. Whereas penning this, I used to be speaking to a number of the workforce right here at Hodinkee and a thought occurred to us about what a watch like that is.
Given the ornate dial selection, this feels very very similar to a Seamaster Diver 300m for somebody that already has one. This isn’t the on a regular basis watch, however quite one thing particular so as to add to the gathering, and there’s nothing unsuitable with that.
Omega is understood for its particular or restricted version watches and this one feels very a lot in step with what we’ve seen the model do lately round numerous Olympic Video games. And look, if you happen to do occur to decide on this as your one and solely Seamaster, then extra energy to you.
It really works simply effective in that context. Now whereas I occur to take no offense to any of the design decisions made right here, am I left wanting a bit? Completely I’m. In reality, Omega has delivered one particular particular version of late that will have appeared – to me – to have been an ideal place to begin for a house run on this Seventy fifth anniversary.
I’m referring to the James Bond Anniversary Seamaster launched on the finish of final yr to commemorate 60 years of the famed MI6 agent. If Omega had determined to take that watch and put this exact same engraved caseback on it, I believe the watch world can be going bananas as we converse.
In the long run, I nonetheless assume it is a good commemorative launch, although it lacks a little bit of timelessness. After which lastly, I believe many people have been hoping to see an up to date bracelet, perhaps one with some taper. We don’t get that right here, so right here’s hoping the eightieth anniversary delivers in that division.
Total, I’m a fan of this smoked dial design. It’s trendy, and it’s particular. Retaining it a matte texture was actually the fitting selection and it performs effectively in distinction with the blue ceramic bezel. I’m positive we could have this one in for hands-on assessment someday quickly, so I’ll reserve any actual vital judgment till I can expertise it in actual life. Till then, I’ll proceed having fun with in the present day’s barrage of Seamaster releases.